Astronomy

Photographing Venus with a phone through a telescope

Photographing Venus with a phone through a telescope


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I took a picture of Venus through my telescope (Celestron Astromaster 130eq) using a 10mm lens with a Barlow lens.

The picture isn't really good since I took it with my phone and I still don't have a camera.

Also, it isn't a matter of focus since I fiddled a lot with it.

I don't know what to do to clear the image and reduce the brightness. Should I use a filter? and which one?


Phone cameras just aren't designed to take good photographs of astronomical objects. The sensor is too small and the configuration options (like exposure time) are minimal.

For astronomical photography, a better option is to use (the body of) a DSLR (or the analog version); the lens is provided by your telescope. Another option is a specialized CCD camera.


Your mobile phone will not give you control over exposure and focus and the image will be most likely overexposed if you took it against a dark sky.

Overexposure causes saturation of the pixels on the sensor, i.e. pixels that get the same photon count (the maximum possible value) but from points of different light intensity. Detail (Venus has none anyway) is lost on your sensor and cannot be recovered by image manipulation tools. There is nothing you can do in that case.

Only if you can set the exposure (and focus) manually then you will be able to get a usable image. If that is not possible you could try shooting when the sky is still light to force a shorter exposure time.


It is possible to get usable photos of astronomical objects using a camera phone, but as @Glorfindel and @Jee say, in this case you need to reduce the exposure time. There are apps that give more control over the camera than the standard app (well that's true for iphones, not sure about others), which are free, or not expensive.

Using a filter would probably not work because the standard camera app is probably averaging the brightness over an area centred on Venus, so will likely just lengthen the exposure to compensate, getting you back to where you started.


How to capture scientific images of Mercury and Venus

Using filters reveals the subtleties in the Solar System’s innermost planets, as The Sky at Night's Pete Lawrence reveals.

Published: January 9, 2020 at 9:55 am

Getting decent results when attempting to photograph Mercury and Venus can be quite challenging. But with care and dedication, both of these worlds have the potential to supply a lifetime of interesting results.

Advances in amateur imaging have opened up new territory that wasn’t possible to explore a few years ago.

The use of specialist filters allows more detail to be extracted as well as providing higher contrast views under certain conditions, such as in daylight for the inner planets Mercury and Venus.

How to photograph Mercury and Venus

The inferior planets Mercury and Venus both exhibit phases. Because it’s a rocky world, recording Mercury’s phase reveals few surprises, but what’s of more interest are images that show albedo variations on the planet’s surface.

This requires apertures larger than 8 inches (200mm) to achieve well. Images of Mercury are best made during daylight hours when the planet is highest above the horizon. Using a red or infrared filter helps to increase the planet’s contrast, darkening the surrounding blue sky.

Read more astrophotography guides:

Venus has a dense atmosphere, and images showing its phase through different filters provide data that records the planet’s phase anomaly.

This is most evident around dichotomy when the planet should, mathematically at least, appear exactly half lit.

In practice, the phase anomaly means that Venus reaches this phase early when it’s visible in the evening sky and late when it’s in the morning sky. The effect is believed to be related to how sunlight scatters in Venus’s atmosphere.

The Venusian atmosphere can respond well to certain filters. Most variation tends to become evident through shorter wavelengths filters, in particular ultraviolet.

Such filters can be expensive, although interesting imaging results have been obtained using visual purple filters (eg, Wratten #23A) fitted with an additional IR-blocking filter.

At the other end of the spectrum, near-infrared filters have been able to reveal the Venusian night-time hemisphere, typically when the planet appears as a thick crescent.

When Venus is a thinner crescent, some people (including William Herschel and Patrick Moore) have claimed you can see a phenomenon known as the Ashen Light, which makes the dark portion of Venus’s disc visible to the eye.

Others put these sightings down to observer error or equipment malfunction. To date, there have been no images to support visual reports of this effect. Could you be the first to capture proof of it?

Although the next transit of Venus is not due until 2117, transits of Mercury are more common and timed images of such events are always useful.

In particular timings through speciality filters, such as H-alpha, provide yet another dimension to this infrequent event.

Useful hardware & software

  • High-frame-rate cameras
  • RGB imaging filters for use with a mono camera
  • Speciality filters, eg, longpass
  • Filter wheel
  • Atmospheric dispersion corrector
  • Large-aperture, long-focal-length telescope on a driven mount
  • A laptop

Pete Lawrence is an experienced astrophotographer and a co-presenter on The Sky at Night.


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Do you love your cell phone with its built-in camera feature? How about the view through your telescope? Have you ever wished you could send a friend or relative a photograph of what you're observing and include them in the fun? If this sounds like you, then there are two products that you'll be very excited to know about-the Orion SteadyPix Universal Smartphone Telescope Photo Adapter and the Orion SteadyPix Telescope Photo Adapter for iPhone. These two awesome gadgets are designed to work with your SmartPhone, iPhone, and most average cell phones with a camera.

What do they do? Check this out?

These inexpensive adapters are a rigid connection which holds your phone steady to the eyepiece of your telescope or spotting scope. You don't need anything special. It's basically a gentle clamp which holds around the eyepiece and a bracket, supporting the phone and aiming the camera lens into the eyepiece. What you see is what you get!

What you are doing is called "afocal imaging." In other words, you're using your telescope as a type of telephoto lens and the eyepiece is doing the work. You can use any magnification level you like and you focus the image by looking into your camera's real-time viewfinder.

Want video? You can do that, too. Any type of photography that your phone is capable of can be translated through the telescope. Don't forget your phone's camera also has adjustments. Experiment with the settings!

What can you expect to see? First off, you're not going to be able to get your phone to perform like the Hubble Space Telescope. As exciting as the technology is, your photography will be limited to relatively simple subjects, like the Moon, planets, bright stars and the properly-filtered Sun. However, don't rule out brighter deep space objects. It all has to do with your phone's camera sensitivity to low light- the lux factor. Lux is the amount of light the camera needs to provide an image. The lower the number, the less light the camera needs to reproduce a clear image. If you can see the object on the screen, then chances are it is going to appear in your photograph.


Afocal lunar image courtesy of Tammy Plotner

As you can see, even at low resolution and a very small size, afocal imaging produces some astounding results. With some focusing practice, you'll be able to take (and send) photographs of lunar features, the rings of Saturn, the belts of Jupiter, the phases of Venus, bright star clusters and stellar images. If you want to really heat things up, you can take images of the Sun, too! Just be sure to use a proper solar filter on the telescope at all times.

But, don't stop there. Once you've attached your phone to your telescope, you can also use the display image as a kind of "mini monitor" so others can see what your scope is aimed at. This can be a very handy tool when doing public outreach. Just center the image on something like a particular lunar crater you'd like to explain, and multiple observers can see what you're talking about at the same time! Using your phone to display images works especially great when you're stargazing with children, especially because young children don't always understand not to grab a telescope around the eyepiece when they want to look, and now they can see without touching!

Need more to convince you? Then think about all the things you can do with the images you take. Not only can you share them with your friends, family and co-workers, camera phone images can keep a photographic diary of craters, lunar features, planets and sunspots, record eclipses, transits and occultations. You can even create your own YouTube astronomy video or post to Facebook, or set up an Instagram account. Transfer the images to your computer and add them to your observing reports, or try your hand at enhancing them. The possibilities are only limited by your imagination!

Tammy Plotner is a professional astronomy author, President Emeritus of Warren Rupp Observatory and retired Astronomical League Executive Secretary. She's received a vast number of astronomy achievement and observing awards, including the Great Lakes Astronomy Achievement Award, RG Wright Service Award and the first woman astronomer to achieve Comet Hunter's Gold Status. Tammy Plotner has been a compensated contributor to the Orion Community since November 2012. Orion's product review policy is to post reviews regardless of the writer's positive or negative feedback of the product.


Necessary Equipment

  • A telescope. Most telescopes will do just fine. Ideally, you want to have one with multiple eyepieces as different objects might look better in one or the other.
  • A camera. This will depend on what type of camera you have available to you. Any modern smartphone camera will do just fine. but the better the camera, the better images you can capture. If you have access to a DSLR camera or even a point and shoot, you can use those as well.
  • Adapters. This will fully depend on the camera you want to use. These adapters will help you to attach your camera directly on the eyepiece so it remains steady. If you try to simply put your camera on the eyepiece without any help you will quickly find even the slightest hand movements will get you blurry images that will most likely look like unrecognizable smudges. Most adapters are very reasonably priced so you will not need to spend much money on them.
  • (optional) A manual exposure app. While the stock photography applications for both iOS and Android are great and do allow you to manually change the setting you will need, they don’t have the best interface for these advanced setting. Some astrophotographers prefer to use third-party apps that have been designed with these options in mind and have easier access to them. Our favorite is Open Camera on Android which is also 100% free. Unfortunately, there is no fully free equivalent option for iOS, but VSCO comes. It offers most features for free and then it has some premium filters and presets that you can pay for.

For the next sections, we are going to assume you already have a telescope and a camera selected. Again, if you are starting out and don’t want to break the bank, any mid-range and above smartphone will be a good start. You can get a professional camera later once you have some experience and want to take the next step up.


Beating the Seeing

High-resolution planetary imaging photography is all about the seeing. Seeing describes how much the image of a celestial object is blurred by turbulence in Earth’s atmosphere. With good seeing, an image can be sharp and steady, revealing fine details. Although nothing will compensate for very poor seeing, high-speed videos combined with advanced stacking software will increase your chances of a sharp image by throwing away the blurriest frames and stacking only the sharpest ones.

To access 1:1 pixel data, depending on the camera, use either the 5× or 10× zoom-in software while recording Live View. Some software also gives you the ability to zoom in 200%, but this is just the preview being magnified, and it provides no real gain in resolution. The Live View SID files recorded using Images Plus are uncompressed, but the frames per second (fps) is subject to the speed of your computer.


Connected through resonance

Conjunctions of Venus and the Pleiades happen yearly but the planet passes through the cluster only once every eight years. This happened last on April 3, 2012, and will happen again on April 3, 2028. In fact, wherever you happen to see Venus in the sky on a given night it will return to nearly the same spot eight years later.

Over time, repeated gravitational interactions between the Earth and Venus have brought the two bodies into a near resonance such that for every eight Earth years, Venus circles the Sun almost exactly 13 times. This 8:13 ratio means that the two planets return to nearly the same positions in their orbits at eight-year intervals, and Venus repeats it course across the sky. Happily, that includes a stroll across one of the most iconic open clusters!

Because both Venus and Earth orbit in ellipses rather than perfect circles, and Venus's orbit is inclined 3.4° to the plane of the ecliptic, the resonance isn't a perfect one. This is why each of Venus's passages through the Pleiades is similar yet unique. In 2028 Venus will cut a more central path across the cluster while on April 5, 2060, it will graze the western edge.

Chart showing Venus's ascent to and passage through the Pleiades during the next several evenings. The time is set at 9:30 p.m. EDT.
Stellarium

Finding Venus on the special night will take little effort. Face the sunset direction during late evening twilight and look up. The planet blazes at magnitude –4.6 and through a telescope presents a fat crescent that's 45% illuminated. As the sky darkens you'll see a few stars of the Pleiades without optical aid, glittering about the planet like moths around a streetlight.

But to really appreciate the sight use a pair of 3-mm or 50-mm binoculars, or even better, a small telescope with a wide-field eyepiece. The extra light-gathering power will reveal many more cluster stars and the large field of view in both instruments will frame the duo in a beautiful way. If bad weather intervenes you can still watch the event via livestream at Gianluca Masi's Virtual Telescope site starting at 1:30 p.m. Eastern Daylight Time (17:30 UT). Masi aptly describes the infrequent pairing as a "cosmic hug" — a wonderful description.


Smartphone Astrophotography: How I Capture the Moon and Planets with My Phone

I’m often asked how I am able to take high-quality images of the solar system using my iPhone. In short, the quality of today’s smartphone cameras makes it possible to take very respectable images of the Moon and planets through a telescope with your phone – but it takes some work.

While the end results may not match those taken with webcam or DSLR equipment, smartphone astrophotography can be a good starting point for budding astrophotographers. It can also be a useful alternative for experienced astronomers who wish to capture an image quickly with little equipment.

What You Need

1) A Smartphone Adapter

A smartphone adapter will hold your phone in place above the eyepiece.

A smartphone adapter will hold your phone in place above the eyepiece.
The simplest way to take a photo at the telescope is to simply hold your phone’s camera up to the eyepiece, but this approach rarely produces good results. Not only is it very difficult to centre the object properly, it can be tricky to ensure that the object is well exposed.

A simple adapter will improve your smartphone astrophotography immensely. An adapter will help you centre an object in the phone’s viewscreen, steady the camera, and ensure proper focus and exposure. A handful of companies are now producing adapters, including Orion whose adapter for iPhone 4s (no longer available) is pictured here. Orion also produces a Universal Smartphone Adapter that is said to fit most phone brands.

Here’s a video of the Orion Steadypix in action to give you a sense of how an adapter is used:

2) Eyepiece Filters

While smartphone cameras have excellent resolution, they don’t yet have the manual exposure control settings needed to evenly expose the entire lunar disc or to capture subtle planetary features. To bring out such detail, you’ll need to use eyepiece filters such as a Moon filter and/or a coloured filter to reduce the object’s brightness in the eyepiece.

It’s a good idea to have a range of filters at your disposal as the magnification you’re using – and the magnitude of the object itself – will determine how bright or dim the object will appear to the camera. A nearly-full Moon through a low-powered eyepiece will require a dark filter, while a crescent Moon at dusk may not require a filter at all.

When photographing a planet like Jupiter, an eyepiece filter will help you to image features on the disc. Without a filter, a smartphone will capture Jupiter as a bright, over-exposed blob. With a Moon filter, you can reduce the brightness of Jupiter’s disc and bring out important detail. In the example below, the addition of a 13% Transmission Moon filter to the eyepiece eliminated the light from the Galilean moons, but allowed Jupiter’s cloud belts to pop into view.

At high magnification, it’s sometimes possible to use a filter that allows more light transmission (such as a coloured filter) to image a planet. Below is an image of Saturn taken with a #80A Blue filter. While this filter gives Saturn an unnaturally blue hue, it brings out ring and cloud detail that would not be visible through an unfiltered shot. It also delivers a brighter view than would be obtained using a Moon filter.

3) Stacking & Editing Software

While it’s possible to take high-quality snapshots of the Moon with a smartphone, it’s difficult to take an individual planetary image that matches the view through the eyepiece.

To tease the most detail out of a planet, it’s best to record a short video clip of the object using the camera’s video function. You can then use freely available image stacking software to select and combine (stack) the best individual frames from the video.

The Stargazers Lounge tutorial on Stacking Planetary Images offers an excellent introduction to image stacking and editing. AutoStakkert, Registax and AviStack are popular, free stacking software tools, and Apple users can also import iPhone video directly into a shareware program called Keith’s Image Stacker to accomplish similar results.

4) Practice

Lunar closeup captured with an iPhone 4s through an 8” telescope.

As with most astronomical pursuits, your skills will improve with practice. Don’t be disappointed if your first images don’t match those you see online. Experiment with different eyepieces, filters, and software and understand that the image quality is only partially in your hands. Your success will also depend on the degree of atmospheric turbulence or “seeing” at the time you’re taking your images. The same techniques might produce dramatically better (or worse!) results from one night to the next.

Shooting Deep Sky Objects

It’s also possible to take photos of the brightest deep sky objects with a smartphone. Using the NightCap app, which mimics the long exposures of DSLR cameras, I was able to obtain a high-quality image of the Orion Nebula that was recently featured on the website io9!

Single frame of the Orion Nebula taken with the NightCap app and brightened using the Camera+ app.

No stacking was required to record the colour and detail found in this nebula. I simply brightened the original image with the Camera+ app.

Lastly, I’ve created a Flickr gallery that contains my most recent iPhone astrophotos.

Examples

Earlier in 2014 I took some of my best iPhone photos of Saturn and Mars using the techniques described above:

About the author: Andrew Symes is an amateur astronomer, part-time prestidigitator, football fanatic, and Canadian communicator based in Ottawa, Canada. He blogs Canadian Astronomy and can also be found on Twitter and Flickr. This article originally appeared here.


Taking Pictures with a Dobsonian

To take pictures through a Dobsonian telescope, you must carefully align the camera lens of your smartphone or point-and-shoot camera with the eyepiece of the telescope. The magnification of the eyepiece inserted into the telescope focus drawtube will determine the size of the object in your image.

This method can produce some exciting results on the brightest objects in the night sky such as planets, and the Moon. However, because the telescope mount (the base that holds the optical tube) is stationary, higher magnifications will result in a fast-moving target, which is tough to photograph successfully.

The Full Moon. Captured through the eyepiece of a Dobsonian Telescope with a Point-and-shoot digital camera.

To photograph planets , astrophotographers shoot short video files of the object and select the best frames to “stack” together. This can help compensate for poor seeing and transparency in the air, and produce a sharp image of the planets or the Moon.

Even though a computerized tracking equatorial mount will provide the stability for amazing planet photographs, it is not recommended for beginners that are looking to casually enjoy space and share their photos.

Here is an example of a Dobsonian telescope that will provide a positive experience early on, and allow you to take simple pictures of the Moon and brightest planets through your smartphone:

The model shown above is small and affordable. For better views, a larger aperture Dobsonian such as the Apertura DT8 8″ is a solid choice.

My first photos of space were captured through the eyepiece of my Dobsonian telescope like the one shown above. This included the planets Jupiter, Saturn, and Mars, as well as some incredibly detailed portraits of the Moon’s surface.


How to take photos through binoculars with an adaptor?

This is the point I was looking forward to getting, and to be honest with you, you may be able to take brilliant pictures with your phone through mostly any binoculars, even handheld.

There are quite a few universal adaptors on the internet where you can attach it to one of the ocular lenses and then the mobile phone to it. Then you can align the camera from your phone directly to the exit pupil light beam.

What are the advantages in this case?

  • Whilst the phone is aligned with the exit pupil, your camera can properly expose the image and focus for the best quality as is taken without binoculars
  • You may not need to struggle to hold both devices on both of your hands, therefore, it would be a bit easier to take photographs handheld
  • You can see a live view through phone screen to what you are photographing.
  • Combined with a tripod, you can reach the maximum potential of taking photographs through binoculars (keep in mind that a compact or DSLR camera may not be an option in this situation).

How to take photos through binoculars with an adaptor, step by step.

  1. Mount the binoculars on a tripod and perfectly focus on the point of interest (which you want to photograph, e.g. the moon)
  2. First, mount the universal adaptor to the ocular lens then attach your mobile phone to it.
  3. Now try to align perfectly the mobile phone camera to the exit pupil light beam of your binoculars. Your universal adaptor SHOULD have X and Y-axis
  4. Set the right exposure and focus on the point of interest (e.g. moon) and then set a timer to 5sec
  5. Then shoot! A timer is necessary to minimise the induced shake resulted by setting up or taking the photo
  6. On your final image, you may notice something like the image is taken through a pinhole. Now you need to edit the image and CROP it to where the good image zone is.
  7. Extra tip: You can use a slightly digital zoom, and I would recommend doing it through a mobile phone with a higher resolution camera, therefore, when you crop out still have a decent amount of megapixels left. Do not use more than 2x digital zoom (as myself lol)

Things to be aware of:

  • Do not try to do it in windy condition as it would be very difficult to focus
  • Ensure that your phone camera lens and ocular/objective lenses are clean
  • It may take you a while to learn how to do it properly
  • I do recommend shooting in RAW and a bit of post-processing.

Now you will be able to take photos through binoculars.

A bit of mention here, I would recommend this universal adaptor. It is cheap, reliable and I used and tested it, therefore, I can say that (at least for iPhone X) this work flawlessly (both on my Nikon 10否 binoculars and the Skymaster 25𴠼). A disclosure to mention, the link is an affiliate to Amazon and if you make a purchase through this link, we will receive a small commission to pay our bills (nothing will cost you though), also the first image is not hosted by us and is shared directly through Amazon Affiliate SiteStrip programme to comply with their policies, while the second image is copyrighted by us.

Some adaptors as the one linked above (the vast majority) would have mixed reviews due to the fact that NOT all the phones may be compatible with those, therefore, I would strongly recommend reading some reviews or product info before you buy them (any of them)

The downside of every adaptor is the usage of mobile phones with a dual camera, as the camera is swapped constantly for a wide field of view to zoom. As an instance, with the iPhone X dual-camera system it is a nightmare because of constantly swapping cameras on photo app. I started to use the Adobe Lightroom camera and it’s working flawlessly.

Before I put my dual camera mobile phone into the universal adaptor on the binoculars, I always open the Lightroom camera app and switch to telephoto (this will allow some extra optical zoom to be added to the binoculars).

Just beware that at the beginning would be a bummer for you to set up the mobile phone with (mostly any) universal adapters. Once you got the process of using it, you may find it easier to mount and use the binoculars to take photographs.

A relatively short story is the anxiety of still taking those photos handheld even with the mount adaptor and cell phone mounted. You will notice through your camera that is hard to stabilize the image due to massive shakes in special with extra optical zoom.

One modality I found (except using the binoculars on the tripod) is to lean the binoculars on a surface while holding it for better stabilisation.

Below are some pictures I managed to take with the above adaptor, my iPhone X (2x optical zoom) + Nikon 10否 binoculars.

How to take photos through a telescope with your phone?

If we jump a bit forward to taking photos with your mobile phone through a telescope, the things should be simpler than trying to take pictures through binoculars, because of some obvious reasons:

  • The telescope is (at least it should be) mounted on a tripod – because of this now you have a great stability.
  • All the optics behind the telescope is focused on providing as good image quality to a single ocular, making it easier to focus on attaching a mobile phone to the telescope
  • Normally, the same adapter used for taking photographs through your binoculars should work just fine with your telescope (but not always). Check your ocular diameter before buying it.
  • Offering an extra amount of magnification (e.g. 75x) you can take photographs as never before with your mobile phone.

As observing through a telescope, the disadvantage would be the shake induced when adjusting it or in the case of a windy condition.

Setting up a timer when taking photographs through a telescope would be ideal because it reduces the above-specified shake which is induced every time you touch the telescope. Keep in mind that a telescope is much more sensible to shake due to the high magnification compared to the binoculars.

But referring to the types of photographs you are going to take through a telescope, I would not recommend aiming for deep-sky photography as a mobile phone camera is not that performant to be able to capture a large amount of low light. Daylight and moon observations and photographs should be just fine to use the mobile phone.

Alternatively with a telescope, and this is the greatest advantage of it, is that you may be able to attach a DSLR to it with some 3rd party accessories. But that would be a subject for another post.

Should you buy binoculars with camera?

Most of the binoculars with camera found on the market, from cheap to an average price, are low-quality products and in many cases, your photographs would look worse than you would take them directly through binoculars with your mobile phone. Not to mention the quality of the binoculars itself.

There are still a very few binoculars with cameras on the market which does worth to buy them, but they are very expensive and not many people can afford. Alternatively, there are monoculars with camera on the market at more affordable prices.

Anyway, I would strongly recommend you to have a look over one of my other posts “should I buy binoculars with camera” to have a better understanding.

The harrash truth.

Learning from experiences is the best way of progressing yourself as taking photographs with your mobile phone through binoculars. It can be difficult at the beginning and the whole process from simply watching through binoculars became one complex as carrying accessories and tripods, attaching and adjusting and so many other headaches.

In reality, this worth the stress but you need to be very decided if you want to do it properly.

I do not recommend you taking photographs with your mobile phone straight through binoculars as you may never reach the expectations, nevertheless, this won’t cost you anything to try it. Maybe you can be better than me and just get some incredible results.

But the easiest way I was talking above is the usage of an adaptor. You definitely need to be patience about that, the reason the product and other similars have a mixed review with some negative. There are clear specifications that you need to be patience and practice and adjust and have another headache in order to succeed. Well, not exactly as that, but you got the point.

And also, one another point to mention is about post-processing. I do recommend some basics edits to the photos (straight from your mobile phone would work well), as you may have to crop a bit, increase the contrast (if require) play with the shadows or highlights and increase the sharpness. Keep in mind that if your image format is JPEG, you may be very limited to post-processing compared to the photographs taken in RAW format.

I would recommend for you to have a quick read about JPEG VS RAW (if you are unsure about the differences) from my other blog (external link).

Related questions:

Q1: Are there alternative ways to take photos through binoculars with your mobile phone?

A1: No, at least not as far as I am aware. There can’t be many ways to do it, therefore, you either take photographs through your binoculars with your mobile phone handheld or attached with a 3rd party accessory. The best way is to have it attached and the binoculars mounted on a tripod.

Q2: Can you use a compact camera or DSLR to take photographs through binoculars?

A2: You may be able to somehow use them but there are a few key points to keep in mind:

  • There may not be adaptors on the market (at least I did not found any) to attach a compact camera or DSLR to your binoculars. Or by the size of a DSLR, better said to attach the binoculars to the DSLR.
  • The image sensor of the compact camera or DSLR it is much bigger than the exit pupil of your binoculars, which, in reality, will complicate things a lot (lots of light lost, image distortions etc.)
  • The lenses attached to the DSLR are massive, therefore, I don’t see any practical way to actually attach the lens to the binocular eyepiece.
  • Alternatively, you can attach a DSLR to a telescope as mentioned above, with some 3rd party accessories.

Q3: Which is better, to take photos with your phone through binoculars or monoculars?

A3: In reality, there is no much difference but me, personally, I rather take photographs with my mobile phone through monoculars. They are simpler to handle them and to attach the phone to them in the same way as you can do to binoculars.

The whole structure and overall stability and balance would be better. Think about the monocular as a small telescope. There are actually different monoculars created for perfect compatibility to some mobile phones, in order to take “zoom photographs”

As I did mention in another post, I am so bad at saying goodbye but thank you for sticking up to the end and I hope that you found your answer in this article. Take care and do not forget to share it to spread the love of binoculars.

I hope to see you around. You can have a quick check on recommended gear section if you are interested. Thank you!

Passionate about binoculars, photography and blogging with years experience behind, I love to split my time and observe the beauty of this world with different eyes.

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